BBaxi logo

Baxi E.01-.12 Fault Code: Causes, Fixes & Repair Costs

What does the Baxi E.01-.12 fault code mean?

Baxi's E-series codes are permanent lockout faults — the boiler has shut itself down and will not restart until the underlying problem is resolved and the reset button is pressed manually. The two-part number after the dot narrows the fault right down: for example, E.01–.04 means repeated flame loss, E.01–.11 points to a fan speed problem, E.02–.07 flags low system pressure, and E.04–.08 indicates the boiler has reached an unsafe temperature. All codes in the E.01–E.12 family work the same way — the boiler locks out, displays the code, and waits. Common sub-codes you may see include: E.01–.02 (return sensor reading higher than flow sensor), E.01–.04 (flame lost five times in 24 hours), E.01–.05 (return temperature sensor open-circuit), E.01–.11 (incorrect fan speed or draught), E.01–.12 (return temp greater than flow temp), E.01–.17 (no circulation detected), E.01–.20 (flue gas temperature above 140°C), E.02–.07 (low or no system water pressure), E.02–.16 (onboard control unit time-out — possible PCB damage), E.02–.17 (communication lost between gas valve and PCB), E.04–.01 (flow sensor short-circuit), E.04–.02 (flow sensor open-circuit), E.04–.03 (critically high flow temperature due to poor circulation), E.04–.04 (flue temperature sensor short-circuit), E.04–.08 (maximum safe temperature reached — safety thermostat open), and E.04–.10 (failure to ignite — check gas supply).

lockout Some DIY checks possible May need a Gas Safe engineer 8 models affected

General guidance only — not a substitute for professional advice. Any gas work must be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If you smell gas or suspect carbon monoxide, leave the property and call the National Gas Emergency line on 0800 111 999.

Common causes

How to fix it

  1. Note the full fault code on the display DIY safe

    Write down the complete code including the sub-number (e.g. E.01–.11, E.02–.07). The sub-code tells you — and any engineer you call — exactly which system triggered the lockout, saving diagnostic time and potentially money.

  2. Check the pressure gauge DIY safe

    Look at the pressure gauge on the boiler fascia. It should read between 1.0 and 1.5 bar when the system is cold. A reading below 1 bar — or below 0.5 bar for E.02–.07 — means the system needs repressurising. If the gauge reads zero or the needle is not moving at all, there may be a significant leak that needs professional attention before you top up.

  3. Repressurise via the filling loop if pressure is low DIY safe

    Locate the filling loop (usually a flexible braided hose with one or two valves beneath the boiler). Open the valve(s) slowly until the gauge climbs to around 1.2–1.5 bar, then close them fully. Never overfill above 2 bar. If pressure drops again within a few days, there is a leak somewhere in the system that an engineer needs to find.

  4. Bleed radiators if you suspect an airlock DIY safe

    Trapped air can prevent proper water circulation and contribute to overtemperature faults. Use a radiator bleed key on the bleed valve at the top of each radiator, starting on the ground floor. Release air until water flows steadily, then check the system pressure again and top up if it has dropped.

  5. Reset the boiler (up to twice) DIY safe

    Press and hold the reset button on the front panel for 3–5 seconds until the boiler attempts to restart. If it relights and runs normally, monitor it over the next 24–48 hours. If it locks out again with the same code, do not keep resetting — repeated resets without fixing the cause can mask a worsening problem or, in the case of E.02–.16, risk PCB damage.

  6. Check that your gas supply is working DIY safe

    Turn on a gas hob or fire to confirm gas is reaching your property. If no gas appliances are working, contact your gas supplier — there may be a supply interruption or your meter may have tripped. Do not attempt to work on the gas meter or any pipework yourself.

  7. Call a Gas Safe registered engineer for all remaining faults Gas Safe engineer

    If the boiler relocks after a reset, or the code points to a sensor fault, fan fault, circulation problem, overtemperature condition, PCB issue, or anything gas-related, a Gas Safe registered engineer must carry out the diagnosis and repair. This includes all E.01–.11, E.01–.04, E.01–.17, E.01–.20, E.02–.16, E.02–.17, E.04–.03, E.04–.08, and E.04–.10 faults. You can find a local engineer at the Gas Safe Register website (gassaferegister.co.uk).

Parts you may need

The exact spare depends on your boiler's GC number (on the data badge). Check this against the part before buying.

Typical repair cost

Expect to pay roughly £100–£350, depending on the underlying cause.

Frequently asked questions

Can I just keep resetting my Baxi boiler to clear the E fault code?

A single reset is reasonable — it confirms the lockout is real and gives the boiler one chance to recover from a transient fault. Two resets are the absolute maximum before you should stop and call an engineer. Repeated resets without identifying the cause can mask a worsening problem, and for code E.02–.16 in particular, continuing to reset risks causing permanent damage to the PCB. If the boiler locks out again with the same code, the underlying fault needs fixing first.

My Baxi is showing E.01–.11 — is it safe to use the boiler?

No. E.01–.11 means the fan is running at an incorrect speed, which could indicate a draught problem at the flue terminal or a failing fan. The fan controls the safe removal of combustion gases, so the boiler must not be used until a Gas Safe registered engineer has inspected and resolved the fault. Do not attempt to reset the boiler repeatedly while this code is showing.

How much does it typically cost to fix a Baxi E-series lockout fault?

Most repairs fall in the £100–£350 range. A sensor replacement (NTC thermistor) is usually at the lower end — around £100–£200 including labour — while a pump or fan replacement typically costs £150–£350. Straightforward repressurisation is free if you do it yourself, or £50–£150 with an engineer call-out. More complex repairs such as a full PCB replacement can run to £300–£500 including parts and labour, and a gas valve replacement is similar. If a heat exchanger is involved, costs can exceed £500 — at which point replacement of an older boiler is often worth considering.

What is the difference between an E code and an H code on a Baxi boiler?

On Baxi boilers, E codes are permanent lockouts — the boiler has shut down and will not restart without a manual reset once the fault is resolved. H codes (such as H.01.xx) are temporary or informational statuses that the boiler may clear by itself without any intervention. If your display shows an H code and the boiler is still running or trying to run, monitor it first before calling an engineer. If it changes to an E code, treat that as a full lockout requiring attention.

Affected models: Baxi 200 Combi 2, Baxi 200 System 2, Baxi 400 Combi 2, Baxi 400 System 2, Baxi 600 Combi 2, Baxi 600 System 2, Baxi 800 Combi 2, Baxi 800 System 2

Last reviewed 2 July 2026 · verified by our team.

Are you a heating engineer? Join our network and get local jobs sent to you.

Find a Gas Safe engineer

For your Baxi E.01-.12 fault. We'll match you with a local Gas Safe registered engineer.

We pass your details to a local Gas Safe registered engineer. No payment is taken here.

Can't find your boiler or fault code?

Tell us what you need — we'll help, and we can put you in touch with a Gas Safe registered engineer.

Get in touch →