Main E60 Fault Code: Causes, Fixes & Repair Costs
What does the Main E60 fault code mean?
The E60 code on Main boilers most likely indicates a fault related to the fan, air pressure switch, or flue sensor circuit. Main boilers (part of the Baxi Heating group) use a structured E-series numbering system, and codes in the E60 region typically point to the boiler's ability to verify that combustion gases are being safely expelled through the flue. When the boiler cannot confirm this — whether due to a faulty fan, a failed air pressure switch, a defective flue sensor, or wiring problems — it shuts down as a safety measure and displays E60. Note that E60 is not listed in all publicly available Main fault code tables; it may be specific to certain models within the Main Eco Compact range. Always cross-reference with your boiler's own manual or contact Main Heating directly if you are unsure. Related codes you may see on similar Main and Baxi boilers include E160 (fan or fan wiring fault), E28 (flue NTC sensor fault), and E130 (flue thermostat lockout) — if your display shows a code close to E60, check those entries too.
General guidance only — not a substitute for professional advice, and not certified by a Gas Safe engineer. Always have your specific appliance assessed by a qualified professional. Any gas work must be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If you smell gas or suspect carbon monoxide, leave the property and call the National Gas Emergency line on 0800 111 999.
Common causes
- Faulty or seized fan motor Common
The fan is responsible for drawing combustion gases safely out through the flue before the boiler is allowed to fire. If the fan motor seizes, runs too slowly, or fails entirely, the boiler detects that safe flue conditions cannot be confirmed and locks out. This is the most frequent cause of fan-related E codes on Main and Baxi boilers.
- Air pressure switch failure Common
The air pressure switch is a safety device that senses the negative pressure created by the fan running. If the switch itself is faulty, its rubber sensing hose has perished or become blocked, or moisture has entered the switch housing, it may fail to signal that the fan is operating correctly — even when the fan is fine. This causes a lockout that looks identical to a fan fault.
- Wiring fault to the fan or PCB Common
All major boiler components connect back to the printed circuit board via wiring looms. A loose connector, corroded terminal, or damaged wire between the fan, the air pressure switch, and the PCB can break the signal the boiler needs to confirm safe flue operation. These intermittent faults can come and go, making them harder to diagnose without proper test equipment.
- Blocked or obstructed flue terminal Sometimes
Debris, bird nests, leaves, or ice forming at the external flue terminal can restrict airflow enough to trigger a pressure-related fault. This is more likely during autumn and winter, or if the flue terminal is in a sheltered position prone to blockage.
- Flue sensor or thermistor fault Sometimes
A dedicated sensor monitors flue gas temperature as an additional safety check. If this sensor degrades, gives a reading outside expected parameters, or has a wiring connection issue, it can trigger a lockout in the E60 range. Sensor failures are less common than fan or pressure switch issues but do occur, especially on older boilers.
- PCB fault Rare
If the printed circuit board develops a fault in the section that processes signals from the fan or air pressure switch, it may incorrectly report a problem even when all other components are working correctly. PCB faults are relatively rare and are usually only confirmed after other components have been ruled out by an engineer.
How to fix it
- Reset the boiler once DIY safe
Locate the reset button on your Main boiler — typically a button or symbol shown in your user manual — and perform a single reset. Allow the boiler a full minute to attempt restart. One or two resets are reasonable; if it locks out again immediately, stop resetting. Repeated forced restarts can stress the ignition electrode and gas valve.
- Check your gas supply DIY safe
Confirm that other gas appliances in your home (hob, gas fire) are working normally. If they are not, your gas supply may be interrupted — contact your gas supplier rather than attempting any boiler work.
- Inspect the external flue terminal for blockages DIY safe
Go outside and look at where the flue exits the building. Check for obvious obstructions such as leaves, debris, bird nesting material, or ice. Do not probe inside the flue; simply clear any visible external blockage from around the terminal and reset the boiler.
- Check and top up system pressure if needed DIY safe
Look at the pressure gauge on your Main boiler. It should read between 1.0 and 1.5 bar when the system is cold. If it reads below 1.0 bar, use the filling loop (usually a braided flexible hose beneath the boiler) to top up pressure slowly to around 1.2 bar, then close the filling loop valve. Low pressure is unlikely to be the primary cause of E60 but can contribute to boiler faults generally.
- Check for a frozen condensate pipe DIY safe
During cold weather, the condensate pipe (a white plastic pipe that runs from the boiler to an external drain) can freeze and cause the boiler to lock out. If the pipe feels solid or you can see ice, carefully apply a warm — not boiling — water bottle or warm water from a watering can to the frozen section to thaw it, then reset the boiler.
- Do not attempt to access internal components Gas Safe engineer
The fan, air pressure switch, flue sensor, wiring loom, and PCB are all internal components. Removing boiler casing and working on these parts requires Gas Safe registration. Do not attempt to inspect, clean, or replace any of these yourself.
- Call a Gas Safe registered engineer to diagnose and repair Gas Safe engineer
A qualified engineer will remove the casing, check fan operation and speed, test the air pressure switch and its hoses, inspect all wiring connectors to the PCB, and read any additional diagnostic data from the boiler. They will clean or replace the flue sensor, swap out a faulty fan motor or pressure switch, or repair wiring faults as needed. Always ask to see the engineer's Gas Safe ID card before work begins.
Parts you may need
- Boiler fan motor (Main Eco Compact compatible) · from £95
- Air pressure switch · from £35
- Pressure switch sensing hose (rubber) · from £8
- Flue NTC thermistor / sensor · from £20
- Wiring loom connectors / harness repair kit · from £15
The exact spare depends on your boiler's GC number (on the data badge). Check this against the part before buying.
Typical repair cost
Expect to pay roughly £150–£380, depending on the underlying cause.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to keep resetting my Main boiler when E60 appears?
One or two resets are fine — sometimes a momentary fault or a brief interruption to the gas supply can trigger a lockout that clears itself. However, if the boiler locks out again with E60 after a couple of resets, stop. The boiler is shutting down for a safety reason, and forcing repeated restarts risks damaging the ignition electrode, gas valve, or PCB, potentially turning a £200 repair into a much costlier one.
What does the E60 code mean on a Main boiler — is it a gas leak?
E60 is not a gas leak warning. It is most likely a fault indicating the boiler cannot confirm that the fan is running correctly and that combustion gases are being safely expelled through the flue. The boiler shuts down as a precaution. While this is not a gas leak, you should still treat the fault seriously and arrange for a Gas Safe engineer to investigate rather than leaving the boiler in repeated lockout.
How much does it typically cost to fix a Main E60 fault?
Most people with this fault pay somewhere between £150 and £380, which covers a Gas Safe engineer's call-out, diagnosis, and the most common repairs such as replacing a fan motor (roughly £200–£350 all-in), swapping an air pressure switch (around £100–£180), or resolving a wiring fault. If the fault turns out to be a PCB failure — which is less common — costs can rise to £400–£600 or more depending on the model, since PCBs are expensive components. An annual service (£85–£120) is the best way to catch fan and sensor wear before it becomes a breakdown.
Can I find the E60 code in my Main boiler manual?
E60 does not appear in all publicly available Main boiler fault code tables, which suggests it may be specific to certain models or production runs within the Main Eco Compact range. Check the fault code section of the installation and user guide that came with your specific boiler. If you do not have a copy, Main Heating (part of Baxi Heating) can supply one, or you can call their technical helpline with your boiler's model number and serial number for a definitive answer on what E60 means for your unit.