Potterton E160 Fault Code: Causes, Fixes & Repair Costs
What does the Potterton E160 fault code mean?
The E160 code appears when the boiler's control board detects a problem with the fan system and responds by locking the boiler out as a safety precaution. The fan is responsible for drawing air into the combustion chamber and expelling exhaust gases through the flue. Before the boiler will attempt to fire, the PCB waits for confirmation from the air pressure switch that the fan is spinning at the correct speed. If that confirmation never arrives — or arrives erratically — the boiler decides it cannot operate safely and shuts down, displaying E160. This fault is common across several Potterton ranges, including the Gold HE and Titanium series.
General guidance only — not a substitute for professional advice, and not certified by a Gas Safe engineer. Always have your specific appliance assessed by a qualified professional. Any gas work must be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If you smell gas or suspect carbon monoxide, leave the property and call the National Gas Emergency line on 0800 111 999.
Common causes
- Failing or failed fan motor Common
The fan motor is the most frequent culprit. Motors wear over time — especially in damp conditions or after long periods of inactivity — and may spin too slowly, cut out intermittently, or stop altogether. The PCB detects the incorrect speed signal and triggers a lockout.
- Faulty air pressure switch or blocked hose Common
The air pressure switch monitors the airflow created by the fan. If the small rubber hose connecting the switch to the fan assembly is cracked, blocked, or has come loose, the switch sends no signal to the PCB even if the fan itself is working fine.
- Loose, corroded, or damaged wiring Common
Vibration, heat, condensation, and previous servicing work can all loosen or corrode the wiring connections to the fan and air pressure switch. An intermittent connection can cause the fault to appear and disappear unpredictably before eventually becoming permanent.
- Blocked condensate pipe causing back-pressure Sometimes
On condensing models such as the Gold HE, a frozen or blocked condensate pipe can create back-pressure that upsets the air pressure switch, triggering E160 even when the fan itself is healthy. This is particularly common during cold weather.
- Debris or physical obstruction in the fan Sometimes
Insects, dust build-up, or fragments of insulation inside the boiler casing can jam or slow the fan impeller. The boiler may start normally for a while before the obstruction worsens and a lockout occurs.
- PCB (printed circuit board) fault Rare
If the PCB is damaged — for example by a water leak dripping onto it or by a power surge — it may fail to send the correct signals to the fan or to interpret the returning feedback correctly, producing a spurious E160.
- Incorrectly configured fan speed Rare
In rare cases following a previous fan replacement, the replacement unit may have been set up with incorrect speed parameters, meaning the draught produced never satisfies the air pressure switch threshold.
How to fix it
- Reset the boiler once or twice DIY safe
Press and hold the reset button for around 3 seconds. If the boiler fires up and runs normally, monitor it closely over the next few hours. A single successful reset after an isolated event is acceptable, but if E160 returns quickly or repeatedly, stop resetting — you are masking a fault that needs professional diagnosis.
- Check that the gas supply is working DIY safe
Confirm that other gas appliances in your home (hob, oven) are working normally. If there is no gas supply throughout the property, contact your gas supplier rather than continuing to troubleshoot the boiler.
- Inspect the flue terminal for obvious blockages DIY safe
Go outside and look at the flue outlet on the exterior wall or roof. Check for bird nests, leaves, ice, or anything else physically blocking the opening. Do not attempt to dismantle the flue — visual inspection only.
- Check and thaw the condensate pipe if the weather is freezing DIY safe
The condensate pipe is usually a white plastic pipe running from the boiler to an outside drain or soil stack. If it feels solid or you can see ice, pour warm (not boiling) water along its length to thaw it, then reset the boiler. This is only relevant if temperatures are at or below freezing.
- Check the system pressure gauge DIY safe
The pressure gauge on the boiler fascia should read between 1.0 and 1.5 bar when the system is cold. If it is below 1 bar, top up via the filling loop following your boiler's user manual. If it is above 2.5 bar, do not touch the filling loop — call an engineer.
- Listen to the boiler during a restart attempt DIY safe
After resetting, listen carefully. A healthy fan produces a consistent hum before ignition. Silence where the fan noise should be, a stuttering sound, or a grinding noise are all strong indicators of a mechanical fan fault — note what you hear and report it to the engineer.
- Contact a Gas Safe registered engineer to diagnose and repair the fault Gas Safe engineer
A qualified engineer will use a multimeter and manometer to test the fan motor, air pressure switch, hose connections, and wiring harness in turn. They will replace whichever component has failed — most commonly the fan motor or its associated wiring — and carry out combustion analysis and a full safety check before handing the boiler back. Note that fans are not usually carried as stock parts, so there may be a one-to-two day wait for the part to be ordered before the repair can be completed.
Parts you may need
- Boiler fan / flue fan assembly · from £120
- Air pressure switch · from £35
- Air pressure switch hose / tubing · from £8
- Fan wiring harness · from £25
- PCB (printed circuit board) · from £220
The exact spare depends on your boiler's GC number (on the data badge). Check this against the part before buying.
Typical repair cost
Expect to pay roughly £180–£380, depending on the underlying cause.
Frequently asked questions
Can I fix the Potterton E160 fault myself?
Your safe options at home are limited to resetting the boiler, thawing a frozen condensate pipe, checking system pressure, and visually inspecting the flue terminal. Any work on the fan, air pressure switch, wiring, or PCB must be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer. Replacing a fan on a gas boiler is not a DIY job — incorrect seals can allow unburnt gas to escape, creating a serious fire or carbon monoxide risk.
How much does it cost to repair a Potterton E160 fault in the UK?
For the most common repair — fan motor replacement including parts and labour — most homeowners pay in the region of £200 to £350. Simpler fixes such as replacing a faulty air pressure switch or a damaged wiring connector will sit at the lower end, typically £150 to £220. If the PCB turns out to be the root cause, parts alone can reach £200 or more, pushing the total bill higher. On an older boiler, it is always worth asking your engineer whether a repair is cost-effective compared with replacing the boiler entirely.
Why does my Potterton boiler keep coming back with E160 even after it has been repaired?
A returning E160 after a repair usually points to a second underlying fault that was not diagnosed first time around — often a PCB issue, flue corrosion affecting airflow, or a wiring problem that was temporarily disturbed during the first repair. On older boilers, multiple components can be reaching the end of their lives simultaneously. If the fault reappears within a short time of a repair, ask the engineer to carry out a full system check rather than simply replacing the same component again.
How long will a Potterton fan repair take?
The diagnostic visit itself typically takes one to two hours. However, replacement fans are not usually carried on an engineer's van and need to be ordered from a heating merchant. This means there is often a one-to-two day wait between the diagnostic visit and the return visit to fit the part. Allow roughly two to three working days from first contact with an engineer to having a fully working boiler again.