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Biasi E154 Fault Code: Causes, Fixes & Repair Costs

What does the Biasi E154 fault code mean?

The E154 fault code (sometimes also displayed as A04 on certain Biasi models) indicates that the boiler's control board has not received confirmation that the fan is running correctly. Biasi boilers use an air pressure switch (APS) — a safety device connected to the fan via heat-resistant venturi tubes — to detect whether the fan is generating sufficient airflow. When the fan spins, the resulting air movement closes the APS, sending a signal to the PCB that ventilation is active and combustion gases can be safely expelled through the flue. If the boiler cannot confirm this — whether due to a failed fan, a blocked flue, a faulty APS, or a wiring issue — it locks out and displays E154 to protect the occupants from potentially harmful gases accumulating indoors.

Lockout — engineer likely May need a Gas Safe engineer 5 models affected

General guidance only — not a substitute for professional advice, and not certified by a Gas Safe engineer. Always have your specific appliance assessed by a qualified professional. Any gas work must be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If you smell gas or suspect carbon monoxide, leave the property and call the National Gas Emergency line on 0800 111 999.

Common causes

How to fix it

  1. Check the external flue terminal for visible blockages DIY safe

    Go outside and look at the point where the flue exits the building — usually a plastic terminal on an external wall or through a roof. Remove any obvious debris such as leaves, spiders' webs, or accumulated dirt by hand. Do not use ladders if you are not confident doing so safely. If there is a wasp or bird nest, you may need a pest-control visit before the engineer attends.

  2. Listen and feel for fan operation DIY safe

    Place your hand gently near the boiler casing (not on any hot surfaces) and listen carefully. A working fan produces a low hum and a faint vibration. If you can hear and feel nothing when the boiler attempts to start, this strongly suggests the fan is not running and you should move to calling an engineer. This is an observational check only — do not open the boiler casing.

  3. Reset the boiler — once or twice at most DIY safe

    Locate the reset button on the Biasi front panel (often marked with a flame or reset symbol). Press and hold it for approximately 5–10 seconds until the display changes or the boiler begins its start-up sequence. Wait up to 10 minutes to see if the boiler fires successfully. If it locks out again with E154, attempt a second reset. Do not reset more than twice in succession — repeated failed attempts serve no purpose and should not be used as a substitute for diagnosis.

  4. Check your boiler's warranty status DIY safe

    Biasi boilers typically carry a manufacturer's warranty of five to seven years depending on the model and registration. If your boiler is still within warranty, contact Biasi directly before arranging an independent engineer, as covered repairs could be carried out at no cost to you.

  5. Call a Gas Safe registered engineer to inspect the fan, APS, and venturi tubes Gas Safe engineer

    An engineer will use a multimeter to test whether the fan motor is drawing the correct current and producing the right rotational speed. They will also test the air pressure switch for continuity in both open and closed states, and inspect the venturi tubes for blockages or damage. These checks require the boiler casing to be removed and live components to be tested — this must only be done by a Gas Safe registered professional.

  6. Engineer to replace faulty components as identified Gas Safe engineer

    Depending on the diagnosis, the engineer will replace the fan motor, air pressure switch, venturi tubes, or wiring harness as required. Using genuine Biasi parts or quality approved equivalents is recommended to avoid repeat failures. After replacement, the boiler will be tested through a full ignition cycle to confirm the E154 has cleared.

  7. PCB inspection and replacement if all other components are confirmed healthy Gas Safe engineer

    If the fan, APS, wiring, flue, and venturi tubes all test correctly, the engineer may conclude the PCB is at fault. A PCB replacement is a significant cost — at this point it is worth asking the engineer for an honest assessment of whether repair or full boiler replacement represents better long-term value.

Parts you may need

The exact spare depends on your boiler's GC number (on the data badge). Check this against the part before buying.

Typical repair cost

Expect to pay roughly £150–£400, depending on the underlying cause.

Frequently asked questions

Can I fix Biasi E154 myself without an engineer?

Some preliminary checks are safe to carry out yourself: looking for a blocked flue terminal outside, listening for the fan, and attempting one or two resets. However, any internal inspection or component replacement — including the fan, air pressure switch, venturi tubes, or PCB — must be performed by a Gas Safe registered engineer. Working on the internal components of a gas appliance without Gas Safe registration is illegal and dangerous.

How much does it cost to fix a Biasi E154 fault in the UK?

Most homeowners pay between £150 and £400 to resolve an E154, depending on the faulty component. An air pressure switch replacement typically costs £120–£200 including labour, while a fan motor replacement usually runs £220–£380. Call-out and diagnostic fees in 2025 are generally £100–£150. In the worst case, if the PCB is at fault, costs can exceed £500 — at which point a new boiler may be a more sensible investment, especially if the boiler is over ten years old.

Why does my Biasi boiler keep showing E154 after I reset it?

If the boiler relocks out with E154 shortly after each reset, the underlying cause has not gone away. A reset simply allows the boiler to attempt another start; it does not fix the fault. Persistent lockouts strongly suggest a failed fan motor, a faulty air pressure switch, or a blocked flue that needs professional attention. Avoid repeatedly resetting the boiler as this will not resolve the issue and wastes time before getting help.

What is the difference between the E154 and A04 codes on a Biasi boiler?

Both codes point to the same underlying problem — a failure to confirm correct fan or air pressure switch operation. A04 appears on some older Biasi display panels and firmware versions, while E154 is the code used on more recent models and documentation. If you see either on your boiler, the diagnosis and repair process is identical: check the flue, attempt a reset, and call a Gas Safe engineer if the lockout persists.

Affected models: Biasi Riva Plus, Biasi Riva Advance, Biasi Riva Compact, Biasi Parva, Biasi Garda

Last reviewed 1 July 2026 · verified by our team.

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