Glow-worm Temperature 60 Flashing Fault Code: Causes, Fixes & Repair Costs
What does the Glow-worm Temperature 60 Flashing fault code mean?
On the Glow Worm Betacom C range, a flashing '60' on the display is the boiler's way of telling you that system water pressure has dropped below the safe operating threshold — specifically below 0.5 bar. At this point the boiler shuts down to protect the heat exchanger from running without enough water (sometimes called a 'dry fire'). If pressure falls further to below 0.3 bar, the display shows 0.0 bar and the boiler switches off completely. This is not an overheating or sensor fault — those are different codes on the same boiler (for example, Temperature 80 flashing indicates an overheat or open-circuit sensor issue, and Temperature 90 flashing relates to flame or gas failure). The Temperature 60 flashing code is purely a low-pressure lockout, and in the majority of cases it can be resolved by a homeowner topping up the system via the filling loop.
General guidance only — not a substitute for professional advice, and not certified by a Gas Safe engineer. Always have your specific appliance assessed by a qualified professional. Any gas work must be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If you smell gas or suspect carbon monoxide, leave the property and call the National Gas Emergency line on 0800 111 999.
Common causes
- System water leak Common
A leak somewhere on the central heating pipework, radiators, or within the boiler itself is the most common reason for persistent low pressure. If the pressure drops again shortly after you top the system up, a leak is almost certainly the cause. Look for damp patches near radiator valves, pipe joints under floorboards, and around the boiler itself.
- Radiators bled recently Common
Bleeding air from radiators releases both air and a small amount of water from the system. If several radiators have been bled in quick succession, the resulting drop in water volume can be enough to trigger the low-pressure fault. A simple top-up via the filling loop will resolve this.
- Faulty or weeping pressure relief valve (PRV) Sometimes
The PRV is a safety valve — often with an orange or yellow handle — that discharges water outside if pressure rises too high. Over time, especially in hard-water areas across the South East and Midlands, limescale deposits or wear can cause the valve to weep continuously, slowly draining pressure from the system. Check the pipe that leads outside from the boiler for dripping water.
- Failed expansion vessel or lost air charge Sometimes
The expansion vessel (usually a red tank inside or near the boiler) contains a rubber diaphragm that absorbs the increase in water volume as the system heats up. If the diaphragm splits or the Schrader valve on the vessel loses its air charge, pressure tends to drop noticeably after the heating shuts down and the water cools. This is a job for a Gas Safe engineer.
- Auto air vent fault Sometimes
Many Glow Worm boilers have an automatic air vent mounted on top of the pump. The float mechanism inside can stick open, allowing water to drip slowly into the boiler casing. This can cause a gradual, repeated pressure loss that is easy to miss until the fault code appears.
- Recent maintenance or system drain Rare
If an engineer has recently drained part or all of the system — for example, to replace a component such as a diverter valve or the expansion vessel itself — the system pressure will be low until it is properly re-filled and bled. This is a straightforward top-up situation rather than an underlying fault.
How to fix it
- Check the pressure gauge reading DIY safe
Locate the pressure gauge, either a dial on the front of the boiler or a digital reading on the display. A healthy cold-system pressure is 1 to 1.5 bar. If it reads below 0.5 bar (or shows 0.0 bar), that confirms the Temperature 60 fault is pressure-related and you should proceed to top up.
- Top up system pressure using the filling loop DIY safe
Make sure the boiler is switched off and the system is cold before you start. Find the filling loop — usually a short silver or grey braided hose with one or two valves, located beneath or behind the boiler. Slowly open the valve (or both valves if there are two) and watch the pressure gauge rise. Stop when the gauge reads between 1 and 1.5 bar. Close the valve(s) firmly. Never let the pressure exceed 2 bar on a cold system.
- Reset the boiler DIY safe
On the Betacom C, turn the central heating control knob to the reset position (marked with a power symbol). Hold or leave it there for at least 30 seconds, then turn it back to your desired temperature setting. The boiler should attempt to fire up. Only reset the boiler two or three times at most — repeated resets without fixing the underlying cause can cause further damage.
- Monitor pressure over the following 24–48 hours DIY safe
After topping up, keep an eye on the pressure gauge over the next day or two. If pressure holds steady between 1 and 1.5 bar, a one-off drop (perhaps after bleeding radiators) was the cause and no further action is needed. If the pressure falls again, something is actively losing water from the system.
- Inspect for visible leaks DIY safe
Without opening the boiler casing, walk around the system and look for damp patches around radiator valves, pipe joints, and the boiler's external connections. Also check outside for water dripping from the PRV discharge pipe — a weeping PRV is a common culprit. Do not attempt to repair any leaks yourself; simply note the location to tell your engineer.
- Call a Gas Safe registered engineer if pressure keeps dropping or a leak is found Gas Safe engineer
If the pressure drops again within a few days of topping up, or if you have spotted a leak, a weeping PRV discharge, or if you suspect the expansion vessel has failed, you need a Gas Safe registered engineer to diagnose and repair the fault. Do not keep topping up and resetting as a long-term workaround — persistent low pressure indicates an underlying problem that will worsen over time and could damage the heat exchanger.
Parts you may need
- Pressure relief valve (PRV) · from £25
- Expansion vessel (internal replacement) · from £60
- Filling loop assembly · from £20
- Auto air vent · from £12
- Schrader valve / expansion vessel re-charge kit · from £8
The exact spare depends on your boiler's GC number (on the data badge). Check this against the part before buying.
Typical repair cost
Expect to pay roughly £100–£300, depending on the underlying cause.
Frequently asked questions
Can I fix the Glow Worm Temperature 60 flashing fault myself?
In most cases, yes — at least initially. If the pressure has simply dropped over time or after bleeding radiators, topping up the system via the filling loop to between 1 and 1.5 bar and then resetting the boiler is a safe DIY task that costs nothing. However, if the pressure drops again within a day or two, or you spot a leak, you will need a Gas Safe registered engineer to find and fix the root cause.
How often should I need to top up my boiler pressure?
A well-maintained sealed system should rarely need topping up — perhaps once or twice a year at most as tiny amounts of dissolved air are released over time. If you find yourself topping up every few weeks, or if the pressure drops noticeably within hours of topping up, there is almost certainly a leak or a failing component (such as the expansion vessel or PRV) that needs professional attention.
What does it cost to fix a low-pressure fault on a Glow Worm Betacom C?
If you can top up the pressure yourself, it costs nothing. If an engineer is needed — for example to repair a leak, replace a PRV, or re-charge or replace the expansion vessel — most people pay between £100 and £300 including labour and parts. PRV replacement typically falls in the £100–£180 range, and expansion vessel work is usually £150–£300 for a standard job. More complex repairs such as a heat exchanger leak or extensive pipework work can cost considerably more, but these are uncommon causes of this particular fault code.
Is the Temperature 60 flashing code the same as a Temperature 80 or Temperature 90 fault?
No — these are three distinct faults on the Betacom C. Temperature 60 flashing means low system pressure. Temperature 80 flashing points to an overheat condition or an open-circuit temperature sensor. Temperature 90 flashing indicates a flame or gas supply failure. If your display shows 80 or 90 rather than 60, the cause and fix will be different, and you should search for that specific code.